By Segun Ogundare, founder of Nayteef
Most traditional Yoruba filas are made from Aso Oke, a hand-woven cloth. Filas are also made from velvet, damask and cotton. The fabric changes how a cap looks, how it holds its shape and how it works with your outfit, so it is worth knowing the differences before you buy.
This guide explains what Aso Oke is, the three classic types, how it compares with other fila fabrics, and what to check before you order. New to the cap itself? Start with our guide to what a Yoruba fila cap is.
Fila fabrics at a glance
| Fabric | Look and feel | Typically suits |
|---|---|---|
| Aso Oke | Hand-woven, with visible stripes or pattern and a structured feel | Weddings, ceremonies and traditional dress |
| Velvet | Soft, smooth surface with a sheen | Dressy events and a smoother look |
| Damask | Pattern woven into the cloth, often with a subtle sheen | Formal occasions where you want a woven design |
| Cotton | Lighter and simpler | Everyday wear, and often used as a lining |
These are general characteristics. Individual caps vary by maker, so check each product description.
What is Aso Oke?
Aso Oke (Aṣọ-òkè) is a hand-woven cloth of the Yoruba people of south-western Nigeria. The name is often translated as “top cloth” or “high status cloth”, and it has long been worn for weddings, ceremonies and important occasions.
It is traditionally woven on a narrow loom made from wood and bamboo, producing long strips of cloth about four inches wide. The strips are then joined to make wider pieces, including the cloth used for caps. Weaving has traditionally been done by men, and towns such as Iseyin, Ede and Ilorin are closely associated with it.
Historically it was woven from cotton and silk. Today, makers also use other threads, including shiny and metallic ones, so a cap described as Aso Oke can differ in fibre, weight and finish from one maker to another.
The three classic types of Aso Oke
| Type | Traditional look | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Etù | Deep indigo with thin light stripes | The name means guinea fowl, after the bird’s plumage |
| Sányán | Beige or tan, with a soft sheen | Traditionally woven from wild silk, often with cotton |
| Àlàárì | Deep red, crimson or magenta | Woven from silk or cotton, depending on the example |
A modern cap in blue, beige or red is not automatically an Etù, Sányán or Àlàárì cloth. Those names describe particular textile traditions, not just colours. Today’s Aso Oke also comes in many other colours, stripes and patterns, including multicoloured and embroidered designs.
Aso Oke vs velvet fila caps
Aso Oke is woven in strips, so it has visible texture and stripes and tends to give a structured, traditional look. Velvet has a soft, smooth surface that catches the light. Neither is better. The choice comes down to the look you want and the occasion.
- Choose Aso Oke for a traditional, textured look, especially with agbada at weddings and ceremonies.
- Consider velvet if you prefer a smoother, softer-looking surface.
- Look at damask if you want a pattern woven into the fabric.
Caps are often lined with cotton, though some are unlined, so check this in the description.
How to choose your fila fabric
- Read the material description. Does it name Aso Oke, cotton, velvet or damask? If it only says “traditional fabric”, ask.
- Look at close-up photos. You should be able to see the weave, stitching and finish clearly. Small irregularities are normal in hand-woven cloth.
- Check the lining and construction. These affect comfort and shape.
- Match it to your outfit and occasion. For colour ideas, see our guide to what to wear with a Yoruba fila cap and our wedding fila guide.
- Get the size right. Measure your head and use our size chart.
- Ask where it was made. Some sources warn about imitation “Aso Oke”, so ask the seller where and how the cloth was woven.
Nayteef’s Aso Oke fila caps
Our caps are handmade in Nigeria from woven Aso Oke. Each has its own colour and pattern, so check the product photos for the design you prefer:
- Black Handmade Yoruba Fìlà Cap, NF-Black 110
- Blue Handmade Yoruba Fìlà Cap, NF-Blue 110
- Multicoloured Handmade Yoruba Fìlà Caps
You can also browse our black and green collections, or shop all Nayteef fila caps. Free UK shipping applies on orders over £40.
Looking for a gift? See our guide to choosing a Yoruba fila cap as a gift. Curious about how the cap is worn? Read what each fila direction means.
How to care for an Aso Oke fila
Follow the guidance for your specific cap. For Nayteef caps:
- Spot clean or gently hand clean, and keep it dry.
- Air dry, and store it in shape.
- Do not machine wash it or use bleach.
If you are unsure how to clean a cap you bought elsewhere, ask the seller before treating the fabric.
Frequently asked questions
What is an Aso Oke fila cap?
A Yoruba cap made from Aso Oke, a hand-woven cloth. It is a popular choice for weddings, ceremonies and traditional dress.
Is Aso Oke cotton or silk?
Both have been used historically, and newer versions can include other threads. Check the description of the specific cap.
Is every fila made from Aso Oke?
No. Filas are also made from velvet, damask and cotton, and some are embroidered.
What is the difference between Aso Oke and velvet fila caps?
Aso Oke is hand-woven with visible texture and stripes, while velvet has a smooth, soft surface. The best one depends on the look and occasion.
What are Etù, Sányán and Àlàárì?
They are three classic Aso Oke types: Etù (indigo with fine stripes), Sányán (beige, traditionally wild silk) and Àlàárì (deep red or magenta). A modern cap in a similar colour is not necessarily one of these.
How do I know if a fila is genuine Aso Oke?
Look for a clear material description and close-up photos, and ask where the cloth was woven. Small irregularities are normal in hand-woven fabric.
How do I wash an Aso Oke fila?
For Nayteef caps, spot clean or gently hand clean, air dry and do not machine wash or bleach. For other caps, follow the seller’s advice.
Find your Aso Oke fila
Shop Nayteef’s handmade Aso Oke fila caps →